YOU WILL NEED:

1. Spray Bottles as stated previously Sun Print can be applied in various ways, however my favourite way is simply to use a garden spray bottle for the application this is a simple and efficient method , and user friendly for children and workshop participants. Sun Print is very concentrated pour a small amount into your bottle and then add water, you may strengthen or dilute to your own requirement. Use one spray bottle per colour. The Sun Print may be stored indefinitely in these bottles.

 

 

2. A padded surface your paper or fabric will need to be kept as flat as possible for the stencil to make the best connection with your material . This does not matter for primed canvas or wood. I have made a board from a piece of plywood that I have stapled an under blanket to then stretched and stapled a piece of calico over the top. This then enables you to pin stencils down as light things like feathers may blow away in a breeze

 

 

3.Stencils the flatter the object you choose to expose the more defined the result 3-d objects are not suitable unless you only want to contact one flat side. Here we can have some fun feathers, are wonderful as are leaves and flower petals. I have had excellent results using cardboard cutouts and lace table cloths you are limited here only by your imagination. Be aware however whatever you use will be permanently stained so don't use your best lace tablecloth!.

 

 

4. Rock Salt try sprinkling this over your fabric after you have pinned your stencil down it will give a wonderful range of soft effects as it draws the colour and causes lovely random marks.

 

 

5. Finishing your creation Sun Print needs to be heat set to fix the pigment this can be achieved by simply ironing your textile on an appropriate setting. If you have created a canvas and wish to paint into it further any good quality acrylics can be used they will match and blend in with the sun print beautifully, you may see examples of this in my gallery. Creations on a wooden surface may only need to be finished with a clear mat vanish spray.         

                                                                                                  

 

Pin your stencils for better contact and stop the wind from blowing them away.

A lovely soft exposure result. .

 

Indigo   

The Queen of Dyes 

 Indigo has long been a favourite of many artists craftspeople and textile artisans. It is distinctive in its beautiful blue colour and wonderful markings that can occur in its processing.

It is a dye that has been in use for many centuries and its origins are claimed by both Asian and African countries.

Originally a product of the Indigofera tinctoria plant, modern indigo is now synthesized, however it is still used in much the same way. 

Indigo is a vat dye which means simply that the dye stuff is actually an solid substance that need to be chemically treated to turn it to a solution, that fabric can be immersed in.

Once the fabric is removed from the indigo colour then undergoes an oxidization process that allows it to return to its solid state in the form of the colour blue.

The oxidization of the indigo is an exciting event and I have seen many workshop participants reach a high level of awe and amazement at the occurrence.

Indigo in its working solution is green and the colours mutate through a spectrum of greens as it is oxidizing on the fabric.

Recipe for a Small Indigo Vat

There are a million different recipes for indigo and a million stories and myths about its use

I must confess I am a casual cook I have used Indigo so often that I just estimate the ingredients and I had to go search amongst my old Art School Journals to find a small recipe. Originally indigo recipes call for a chemical called Sodium Hydrosulphate , however there is an easier solution.Suffering through many times of trudging to chemical suppliers, when I was an art student in the early 80's, to buy the stinking smelly stuff, and then finding it had a very limited shelf life! I discovered "Rit". Rit Colour Remover, found in supermarket shelves in the laundry section.There are other brands as well just check that it has sodium hydrosulphite listed in its ingredients.

 Please be careful of this substance it is a very fine powdery acid wear a face mask or at the very least put a scarf over your mouth and nostrils. This is also important for handling of the indigo powder as well.

Caustic soda is also used and can be found in the same location as the Colour Remover please take care and read the precautions noted on it container caustic soda can burn. It is however used in small proportions in this recipe.

Requirements

A bucket

Rubber gloves

Measuring spoons (only used for dyeing)

A large sheet of plastic to protect work area

Natural fabric, silk, cotton, rayon.

Vinegar for final rinse.

The Recipe 

Use a stainless steel pot ( reserved for dyeing only) or a plastic bucket

> to one litre of cold water add 1 heaped teaspoon of caustic soda, stir with a plastic spoon or wooden stick till dissolved 

>sprinkle 1 heaped teaspoon of colour remover into the water and stir

>Sprinkle two heaped teaspoons of Indigo powder into the top of the water

>Stir gently being sure not to make bubbles.

> let the solution sit for about 10 to 15 mins stir gently again

> insert a piece of white paper or fabric into the vat, if it is a green colour when you lift it out it is ready

> if it is clear with a few blue speck you may need to sprinkle a little more colour remover on top and wait a few more minutes.

 Checking the dye vat... A good green means its ready

There are many ways to tie your fabric to go into the dye bath I love to use Japanese shibori methods. You can find many books and websites that will instruct you in these methods or you may simply tie circles or simply insert the fabric scrunched into a bundle All will work

Immersing the Fabric

 

Wet your fabric first.....It must be wet the dye will enter the fabric more easily plus the water will remove any oxygen from the fabric .... This is important as excess oxygen in the bath will cause it to oxidise and exhaust too quickly.

Place the fabric gently into the vat being careful not to make large bubbles..... you may have to weight it down with either the spoon or rocks are good too

 Now either tie up some more fabric or have a cup of tea, give the dye time to work into the fabric and ties.

 Removing and Oxidizing the Fabric

When you wish to remove your fabric ...wear gloves... reach into the vat and squeeze the fabric gently pull it slowly to the side squeezing it all the way up the side of the bucket DO NOT LET IT MAKE BIG DRIPS DOWN INTO THE BATH.

Place your fabric onto the plastic sheet You will notice it is starting to turn blue already. Leave it for about 20 minutes turning it over now and then to let the air get underneath.

Rinse it out and then you are ready to untie it ......and reveal its beauty.... Give it a final rinse with a splash of vinegar in the water and hang it out to dry.

I put a lid on my dyebath, a piece of board will do if you are using a bucket. You can then simply sprinkle more colour remover on top to recharge the vat for the next dyeing session.

It will keep  like this for a long time. If it happens to dry out you can add more water a little more caustic and remover and start again. I keep using mine this way at times adding more indigo powder too I think it is more environmentally friendly than washing the dye into the drain or emptying it out on the ground to go into the water table. I have used a vat this way extensively until the last drop of fluid has been taken up by the fabric.

Have fun!!! I will be adding more information later and also stocking small (50Gm) packages of indigo in the online store.